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4.5
Having factory leather wrapped steering wheels on our other vehicles, I was very interested in getting one for a recent truck purchase however buying an OEM one way going to be far too expensive because of the airbag R and R. So, I spent a fair amount of time reading reviews for this and other wraps, as well as watching install videos. At the end of the research phase I concluded that the expensive wraps were not any better than the low-mid priced ones, the install would take time, and that I should keep my expectations in check – it is not going to look like a factory wrap.This product arrived as expected. Black, some texture, 2 needles, and plenty of thread. The thread is more of a thin woven cord. Some reported problems with breaking needles. Past experience with needles and canvas has taught me that needles do not break unless you try and bend them. I kept that in mind and did not break either needle.Some reviews say to use an awl or nail to open the holes prior to installation. If you have ever created a new hole in a leather belt, you know this will not give you the desired result. Instead, I put a VERY small drill bit in my Dremel and hit each hole; just a quick in and out. This does pull reveal a small amount of natural color around the holes, but it is a small compromise if you do not want to fight the needle. The hole must be small enough so the needle still drags when pulling through, but open enough so you do not need pliers, gloves, or a thimble. When done, you can hit the holes with a little black shoe polish if they bother you. Mine does not bother me at all (posting some photos).I used the cross stitch, a curved pick to pull the cord tight from time to time, and spring clamps to keep the sewn part from loosening while I continued my work. In the end it took 2 hours 45 minutes including the time it took to ream the holes. The install looks great, not factory, but I think about as good as an aftermarket install is going to get. I do NOT have bubbles around the spokes, and the sizing was near perfect. It could have been a bit smaller as the seam wanted to bulge slightly in a few spots, but the product is intended to fit a range of sizes. The seam was easily flattened by putting the spring clamp on it for a few seconds. 1 hole was off. I remedied this by simply running through the hole with 2 passes to even out the stitching. I also used a small amount of super glue to ensure the knot would not come undone (tuck the knot in as per the direction, then I let a couple of drop of glue go into the seam above the knot). I did deduct one star for the small holes as the manufacture knows what needles that are providing.My tips: Drill out the holes if you do not want to use pliers. Do not bend the needles and they will not break. Get at least 1 spring clamp and a curved (hook) pick. Use the spring clamp to hold your work in place, and the pick to pull the cord tight. Make sure you do not pierce the original steering wheel, new leather, or cord (you can round off the pick tip with a file if it is new and pointed). Take your time. Do about 6 cross stitches then tighten, clamp, and repeat. Follow the tip that someone else posted about the spokes – go one hole past where you think you should stop, but this also means start one hole sooner than you think you should. Oh, and take your time!
